The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Cool down lap with Ryan and Alexa, I remembered my sequence, so fun!

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Stoked! With Tammy, Jon, Ryan, and Alexa. Felt really chill today with good rests, I think I was well rested and the endurance training is paying off. Accidentally entered the crack a little too high which was terrifying (blind placement) and hard balance, it would be more straightforward and safer to enter lower.

The Watchtower > Watchtower Main

With Tammy, insecure and greasy like the rest of these routes but enjoyable nonetheless

The Cathedral

Warmup with Jon, Tammy, Ryan, Alexa and pets potato and Mona

With Tammy, I lead p1,34 and we skipped p5 due to darkness. P1 had a thought provoking but in the end secure move over the lip. P2 goes up and right on the ramp. P3 was spooky runout slab with marginal placements, maybe I took a bad line. P4 was $$$, so safe and so satisfying dancing back and forth thru the dihedrals. Almost fell at the end fighting rope drag, wish I had extended more draws. Ideal rack would be wires, black to green totems

Warmup 2 with Tammy

Greasy jugs low, fell right before the chains at the crux that comes out of nowhere! Fun layback sequence

Warmup with Tammy

With Tammy, active rest day :)

Not my favorite, mostly searching for jugs in a sea of garbage. Foot slip off a greasy ledge sent my a-flyin’

Tried Brent Bargahn’s lead rope solo system, everything worked great except the rope didn’t feed at all haha. Fixe siurana 9.4, time to try a skinnier rope. Fun route and perfect for lrs

With Braden, Jacob and David such an adventure! Spectacular summit, makes me want to come back and do monster tower. Took us 3.5 hours to summit at a chill pace. Doubles to 4, triples 2/3 and one optional 5 that was nice to have. I led p 2 and 3, Braden led p1 4/5 and 6. Last pitch is sporty and fun edging, would be safe falls. This also made me want summit drugs… or a cold beer. One can dream.

TRS very bouldery before the first bolt, would want a stick clip for sure. Took me like 4-6 laps through the crux to TR red point. Right hand crimp start, get up and switch to right hand on horn, bad left hand gaston at bottom of flare. Right foot high to starting crimp, left foot goes out to low left rail. After first bolt, right hand to side pull, left hand bump to small crimp, right foot in flare, step up to jug.

TRS good warm up, balancey

River Road > Dolomite Spire

Drone recovery adventure with Mango was successful. The aid climbing looked… spookig and mango is a barrel chested brontosaurus beast. But following was great! Very impressed by the parties that have done this free, so much crumbling rock that even TR was scary. Much fun was had by our dehydrated little selves, I think 7 hours car to car. And then good ol Oreo milkshakes yummmm

Indian Creek > 4X4

With Jacob and Brady, gonna miss those goons had such a great week with them! Great roof sequence, perfect fists for me that were surprisingly secure. The left foot on the lip of the roof was key, as was transitioning to uppercut fist above the roof. Crux for me was lost skin and slippery blood, gloves next time.

With Jacob and Brady. Fun and pumpy thin hands. Leans much more than it appears. Felt surprisingly secure, greens feel better on than face than in the corner for me I guess. Gear: 9 1s, 5 .75, 1x green metolius, 1x black metolius. 70m rope

Warmup with Jacob and Brady. Their first creek climbs, they crushed it on lead!

With Jacob and Brady, long and continuous thin hands! Felt very cruisy, lots of pods to rest in and place gear. My crux was the .75 corner up top, it was short but I’m out of practice. No purples, 6 greens, 10 reds, 3 yellows, 1 blue. Rapped with 2 70s

With Jacob and Brady. Heady escape from the hueco and a memorable dance up the patina

Warmup with Jacob and Brady. Incredible thin edging and a surprising slopey top out

Steinfell's Dome

Trimul fun with Jacob and Brady! 3 pitches of really fun slab on bomber rock. Brady led p1-2 while Jacob and I followed, I lead 3-4, Jacob summoned. 2 easy raps with a 70. 2 star climbing 4 star experience with friends :)

Elephant Rock > Elephant Rock - North

One of my proudest sends, so grateful for Jacob and Brady belaying me. Love this line

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

With Jacob Brady and our new friend Greg. Watched Greg take a burn and he was nice enough to let me use his draws. Really fun rest in the cave, and being 6’1” was essential so I didn’t have to dyno

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

Warmup with Jacob and Brady, fun corner and pod

Bath Rock > Bath Rock - West

With Jacob Brady, belayed by new friend Greg. Really fun movement, steep and slab

Elephant Rock - East

With Jacob and Brady so fun to get on top of this rock :)

Elephant Rock - East

With Jacob and Brady, fun flake!

Elephant Rock - North

With Brady and Jacob, such a blast! Slipped getting out of crack, and hung to inspect the final crack. Gear for RP: #5, #2 for under flake. #3 above flake, small red metolius nut for before bolt. .3 and black totem for bottom of crack. Medium blue metolius nut for mid upper crack, maybe purple or black totem if you had it. Bolt bolt, .4 for before chains or run it out. 6 runners, 3 QD. Solutions were great. Great continuous climbing with lots of different styles.

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > White Wave Wall

With Tammy, Jacob and Brady. Fun jug haul, fell in the same spot pulling the final lip twice. There is probably some beta that would make it easier, foot work or heel hook or intermediate hold. Reaching across body to next set of jugs is taxing when pumped

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock

Second warmup with Jacob, Brady and Tammy. Fun juggy roof sequence with good rests

Southern Wasatch > American Fork Canyon > Hard Rock

Warmup with Jacob, Brady and Tammy

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, 75 direct sun made things spicy! Foot slipped at 4th bolt, womp womp

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, felt much more secure today even in the sun. Still strenuous but fun variety

Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Crescent Crack Buttress

With Jacob and Brady, Jacob led :)

Pentapitch Area

Fun lap with Jacob and brady so glad they came out to visit!!

Boulders - Little Cottonwood > The Riverside > My Special Purpose Boulder

5ish tries, fun! One move wonder for me, powerful first move that went with bicycle foot beta. Top out was fine once I knew what to grab.

Boulders - Little Cottonwood > The Riverside > Shivers Boulder

2 tries, the crux was getting off the boulder! Ended up down climbing the route and jumping to my pad

With Vince, sntarting ti get worm but still doable. Slipped out of a foot jam while resting and took a short ride on a questionable nut, ha!

With Vince, felt really secure today even in the sun

Warmup with Vince

Be OnE wItH tHe PlAnE _/~*~\_ Two laps trs, so fun I’m so grateful I can do this before work. Felt really secure today, katanas crushed it. Crux is probably second bolt. Got to watch some dudes take burns on coffin roof which was fun.

Wow granite feels amazing when it’s 50 out haha ❄️ Fun TRS sesh, honestly felt really cruisy today the beta feels like muscle memory now. I think taking a rest day yesterday helped, what a concept. I could just yard off the chicken head with my left hand and throw my right into the bomber paddle.

With Nate, fun cool down love this route. Used only nuts and felt very secure

With Nate, fell many times through the crux tips section. Once you reach the crack it’s smooth sailing. Placing gear was hard for me, I used lots of brassies but maybe micro cams are the way to go. Got to watch another party send it after me which was cool. Excited to come back to this one, really really fun! Slab shoes are key for this

With Nate, good warm up approach to pudgy

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Worked out some moves after onsight attempt. The sport pitch below was kinda hard, thin side pulls facing the wrong way very balancy. Would make a great long linkup, as opposed to using the 5.0 chimney.

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

With Andrew, Nate, and Tammy. Such a fun long line! Fell several times through the crux but worked out a good sequence. Beta: blindly protect with bomber .5, optionally place a bomber .3 just above it. Left hand pinky down jam just below .5, right hand pocket, left hand to positive jug in crack. Placing more gear here is pumpy, best bet is to charge up to the crimp jugs, then get the flake. Place gear from the flake and eek out what rest you can by stemming feet. Can place a black metolius nut higher in the crack, a little tricky but it’s bomber (little too flaring for a cam). Left hand at locker pocket atop flake, reach right hand high to thumb down two finger lock, set feet, match on diagonal jug just up and right, then left hand to locker pinky down jam. Right hand up to locker thumb down jam. Could place gear here, better to keep going to excellent left hand jam. Place something, then fire up through huge crimps to a great rest. Place a black totem and go for the chains. Gear: #3, runners, and triples .2-.5

The Watchtower > Watchtower Main

With Tammy, Andrew, and Nate. Really fun line, I trotted right at the piton to the next crack. It was unclear if left or right was the way.

The Cathedral

Fun warmup 2 with Andrew, Nate and Tammy. Stick clipped second bolt, jotted right then back onto the face at second bolt. Really fun delicate edging through 3rd bolt, rest of the climbing was okay.

The Cathedral

Great warmup with Tammy, Andrew, and Nate

With Tammy, welcome to this week’s edition of “you might be a sport climber if…” where Mason gets smoked by a LCC 5.9 after flashing 5.12s at ten sleep last week! That damn sequence through the pin scars was so insecure and pumpy for me, I got to the chicken head but couldn’t move past. Maybe I’m supposed to reach up and use the high flake to layback, dunno. Will be back for more blood

With Tammy, such a fun slab! Just enough divots, chicken heads and short-ish runouts to keep it 5.9. Danced my way up feeling pretty secure the whole time, then got overconfident on the last push. The final bolt was at face level, and whatever I was standing on crumbled and I took a nice 30 footer past the previous bolt. Safe fall but disappointing, instead of taking the direct line I went to the chicken heads the next attempt and that was way more secure. So fun!!

It’s ya boi Spucky back again with another bongeater beta blast on channel 105.10d, tune out now if ya wanna onsight you naive spucklehead. Before OW get finger lock then right hand jam and place .3 (or .4 or .5?) with left hand to spare that puppy. Put the #4 real high for best pro, almost level with chicken head (specifically at the right hand thumb rest). Then at chicken head, get feet secure and put left hand into shitty two finger lock to get right hand up into the paddle? Very tempting to put left hand in the paddle but it fucks up my sequence. Fist jams felt good, could place a #5 but at that point I don’t think you need it with the bomber 4. First lap was clean, second lap fell twice and bled on the rock a bit, sorry spucksters I was feeling tired today. That’s all from Spucky you ladies and gentlespucks have a wonderful day

Oh geez Rick that was hard With Willy and Jett, 10/10 effort but fun movement. Two finger pockets were mean to me

Warmup with Willy and Jett, movement felt tricky to me. Still cleaning up a bit

Mondo Beyondo > Downpour Wall

With Willy, super fun and felt easier than the greasy 10d warmup haha

Mondo Beyondo > Downpour Wall

Warmup with Willy

Old Road Crags > Powers Wall

With Willy, suuuuch a fun long route with great rests throughout. I fell once halfway through (pocket pump) and once right before the chains (crux). Lumbricals felt sore so I’ll save the red point for another time

Old Road Crags > Powers Wall

With Willy, gave it two attempts and fell just before the last bolt both times. Third time I eeked out some rest on the bolt prior and then worked feet high. Skipped the last bolt and accidentally got myself into a bad back step but I made it phew

Old Road Crags > Honky Tonk

Warmup with Willy and jet

4. House Wall

Warm up 2 with Willy

4. House Wall

Warmup with Willy, he forget his shoes so he used mine! And the grinch’s feet grew three times that day

5. Drugs and Sex

With Willy, so fun and very doable! Good rests, my crux was off the deck and right before chains

South and East Faces

With mango and Willy. A journey through choss and time to the summit. P1 and 2 were pretty good hand cracks, and once at the lower meadows it was unclear how to summit. There was a path that looked solo-able through shrubs and rock piles. Mango ended up leading the rappel route on accident which was a stinky loose chimney, he is our choss-en one! Summit near sunset was beautiful :)

West Face

I’M MR MEESEEKS! With mango and Willy, such a cool box and it made my legs feel alive. I planned to climb the crack some but ended up stemming pretty much the whole time. It was hard. I placed .2-.75, brought cintuples in .3-.75. So fun

With mango and Willy, lead the splitter finger crack so fun! The bottom before the crack felt a little British

With mango and Willy, really fun corner! Was able to get it clean but 9/10 effort through the calves. Would be fun to go back and lead it... lichen was a bit loose but protects well. Good warm up for el mat

*€^%# HaIL SaTaN #%^€* Great adventure with mango and Willy, prayers to Baal aside. Mango crushed P1, Willy floated P2, and I thrutched my way way through choss to the summit. Hot day, wish I wore hand Jammie’s. Took us like 6 hours, more than we expected but party of 3 and long pitches. 2 70s made the rap easy. Not bison skull to be found but made a small blood sacrifice in the summit register just to be safe.

Warmup with Avery and Angela and Molly the doggo. Fingers and toes felt cold but this was fun vertical edging

With Avery and Angela. Sooooo close, clipped the third bolt and threw for the 3 finger jug but my right fingers slipped out mid throw :( fingers were feeling tweaky and not worth the injury risk. Will 100% go next visit with fresh fingers

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

Warmup with Sean

1. Left Side (Lunarscape, Tribal War, Poker-Face, Lone Pilgrim) > 3. Poker Face Alice

With Avery. Fingers were strained from previous climb but worked out some beta. Right foot heel toe cam in crack right hand in pocket, reach left hand to right side of jug. Clip. Right hand to left side of jug, work feet up and throw for next jug, clip.

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

With Sean. Really fun movement, felt like I could get it but had to stop because fingers started hurting from pockets. Beta: left hand under king two finger pocket, right hand under king. Left foot on high left bench, right foot on darker platform. Dead point right hand to pocket with front two fingers. Clip. Work feet up, left hand to huge three finger pocket a foot above the bolt

3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

Warm up with Sean. Fell on the bouldery start, afterwards we both noticed a left crimp above and left of bolt that might help. 5.10 after that

OK Corral > 3. Right Side (Diamonds, La Vaca, Pronghorn, Rodeo Drive) > 4. Rodeo Drive

With Sean and Avery. Fun vertical thin edges with just enough pockets and a bomber mono :) pumped out on my first go, made a mistake on my second, then cruised through it on my third. Tricky feet make all the difference, great evening temps

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

With Sean and Avery. 2 tries, first try I got to the lip but couldn’t move past the shallow pockets. After watching Sean and deciding the stem was on, the lip moves felt great really fun!

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

With Sean and Avery, had to aid through the crux shallow two finger pocket. Fun climb with a crack at the bottom

The Main Wall > F. Rode Hard Wall

Warmup with Sean and Avery

TRS 5ish laps through the crux, working out beta and gear. Beta: get .3 C4 in just below the offwidth, left hand up to 3 finger lock at base of OW, left foot jam right foot smear on raised grain and knee bar onto the crack edge. Place #4 with right hand, option to shake out, then commit to layback. Layback until left hand can crimp chicken head, jam left foot and knee bar or smear right. Key hold: get right hand into the bottom part of the 2 flakes, amazing full cupped paddle hand. Adjust feet (get a foot at base of OW I think?) and reeeach left arm up to fist jam, then right hand fist jam working feet up. Could place a #5 here but it would be strenuous, safe falls without. From fist jams somehow start layback on the top left edge of the crack again (left foot chicken head or jam then eventually smear, right foot smear). Palms are very sweaty on slopers at this point, felt desperate each time I did it, beached whale top out. Wear pants to save your knees, don’t really need gloves. Definitely do it in cold weather or the shade, hand sweat would kick you off the polished slopers (left at 10AM, still in shade except for top out). Really fun and good exercise.

Top rope solo, my onsight felt shaky a few days ago so I decided to come back and do some laps. Feels really solid now, so much fun I just wish it were 3x as long! 5 laps total, 0.4 directional. Nice slung tree to safely access the anchors. Rock felt extra grippy today, cooler temps and high winds. Much better than the post rain humidity of last time.

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

With Nate, fun cool down. Lots of slopers and some good jams, very different from the left side of the wall.

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Fun challenge with Avery, nice to have the first bolt clipped bad fall potential. Gave the dynamic beta several attempts but I either missed the hold or my right foot popped once I latched it. Decided to try a static line I saw and it worked first go! Right hand to small 3 finger rail, work the feet up on slab (sticky shoes help), then float the left hand to the jug. The rest of it is easy climbing, one move wonder.

The Watchtower > Watchtower Tiers

Good warm up with Tammy and Nate

The Cathedral

Warmup with Tammy and Grace. Felt more strenuous than expected, lots of fun stemming and decent jams, bad flakes make the gear tricky.

Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

Shane lead p3 and I lead p4. Badass! I got turned away by the hook direct, took a couple falls above the first bolt. Gotta hone my slab skills and come back to it

Pentapitch Area

Epic adventure times with the one the only Shane Scoggins. Last pitch was work

Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area

With Shane, fun adventure climbing. We got off route and only did the first two pitches, ended up on the hook to finish things up. Rap requires an 80, oops. 70 got stuck rapping off a tree, thankfully a kind man got our rope out of a construction so we didn’t have to do any rope solo shenanigans to get it

Pentapitch Area

With Shane Scoggins, legendary crusher

Pentapitch Area

With Scoggins, such a fucking blast. Want to do this every day

Bingo Baby

Two laps on this, made a mistake right before the chains on my first lap. Second lap is started raining, ugh. Very much within my wheelhouse and super fun, good warmup for next time.

Bingo Baby

With Reuben and Jacob. Feels like it could go on a fresh day, worked out the beta. Key: left foot on chip to the left of first bolt while right hand is on the first hold of the lip. Get side pull on glued hold, match with right hand on top crimp, throw for jug with feet in cave, get right hand jug, left hand good crimp, right hand rail, left hand glory horn. Clip and rest

Bingo Baby

With Jacob, such a fun route! Felt like a perfect repeat, very validating. Had energy to spare

The Membrane

Warmup with Jacob and Reuben

With Nate, really fun line that challenged my weaknesses (slanting crack and lie back). Pulled hard for 10a! Gear beta for next time: 3x .3, 3x .4, 1x black totem, 1x 3, 1 nut at the top. Really can’t have enough .3

With Nate, spooky crux move but protects well. I need to stop breaking in new shoes on slab

With Reuben, so fun!! Medium length pump fest on vertical pocket jugs with a balancey crux around bolt 3. Fell at the crux on my first go, and still felt insecure on the second go but if you trust the feet they stick.

With Reuben, was feeling great on the first half through the roof and loved how it flowed. Thought I would get it clean but then I got stumped on the seemingly featureless face of the second half, probably hung like 6 times. I think it’s all there and doable, finding the holds without chalk marks was a challenge though. The rock quality on the upper arete didn’t inspire confidence so not sure if I’ll be back on this again but besides that it’s a really cool line.

Warmup with Reuben

With Tammy, I lead pitches 2 and 4. I love this gulch! Pitch 2 was amazing, would love to come back and do more routes on that wall. Pitch 4 was fun but I must have climbed it wrong because it felt awkward, maybe I got sucked into the crack too much and should have used the face more. Sun: Sun enveloped the west wall around 10AM and was warm, maybe 80. Skinny puppy wall on the east side remained shady til we left around noon. Pro: didn’t use the #4, didn’t need nuts. Doubled .4-2, single .3 and 3, 10 draws

With Reuben, aided through the bottom on my first attempt (felt impossible trying to go straight up through the bolts), rest of it felt okay with the right sequence. Watched Reuben breeze through the bottom (left hand crimp, right hand two pad undercling and get high feet to reach better holds above) and got excited to try again. On my second attempt I had a few false starts working on my crux and once I got it the rest of it was a breeze. Good no hands stemming rest before the steep. Got it clean but would like to come back and do the intro sequence more confidently, it’s a good one to improve footwork.

With Reuben, fell during the layback on my first go and worked through it a little insecurely on my next attempt. Good warmup and good one to work on my layback skills, need more confidence in that area.

Jacob lead, I followed and could not figure out the crux sequence at the top. Stout right hand 3 finger drag to a bad left hand to an okay right hand, sustained

With Jacob and Ethan, burnt to hell on this one too but boy is it fun, will definitely be coming back to this! Steep jugs to sudden thin vertical edging

With Jacob Russ and Ethan, I was burnt to hell but struggled up this. Will get it clean during warmup next time

With Jacob, Russ, and Ethan. 3 laps, went from feeling impossible to really close! Last try one hang at the crux. Found a way to layback to get higher feet before going for the crimp, so I think next time it’ll go

Warm up with Jacob and Russ, interesting moves on the dihedral at the top

Warmup with Jacob

Fun outing with Jaime! Pitch 3 was cash money, fun corner stemming and low angle twin cracks through a face. Used nuts and .3-2 with doubles in .4-.75 and that felt cozy. Saw 2 moose!

2 tries, felt impossible on first go then I watched Reuben climb it (stay left) and then it went. Learning! Also helps to have hung draws

2 tries, almost on sighted but got pumped feet before the chains. Second go I took better rests

“Warmup” with Reuben, 3 hangs

With Chase, I led odd pitches. Pitch 3 and 4 were really fun, I liked this climb better than up the irons. I am too young to understand any of these Iron Maiden references anyways

With Chase, I led p1 and 2. Really fun climbing, we linked p3 and 4 and I would do it that way again. Thought the crux was the face of p4, very well protected throughout and felt like I could have led it clean. We tried skipping the p4 rap station and were left hanging 10-15 feet above the p3 rap station at the end of our 70, would have been faster (and safer) not to skip it.

Trs two laps. Pulled hard on good crimps with feet smears down low, ok crimps and feet through the middle, fun cutout side pull helps get you over the lip where you join with camel. Difficulty felt about the same as camel. Hot out today woof

Trs fitness laps on camel. Second bolt beta: right hand on leftmost thin edge, get right foot up to good rail left of bolt, stand up to hidden edge at left side of blob. Tick marks help. Crimps all feel good, it’s just a matter of finding them and your feet

With Jaime and Sage. Such a fun outing! Kept it at casual conversation pace and enjoyed the ridge all the way up. We were all ailing in some form or another so we took lots of breaks haha. Many a snowball met it's end against stone and skin today. Took us 5 hours I think

The ridge was quite fun, and the hike was a solid workout. 3:45 car to car, booked it on the hike and slowly enjoyed myself on the ridge. There’s a little bit of 5th class at the end, I searched out more along the way but honestly I bet you could avoid most of it. Got a little confused on down climb 2, I went too far down the spire and the climbing was harder, I think if you go 15 feet skiers right of the rappel it’s easier and shorter. Would bring a clif bar next time. 1 liter water 50* out

With Tammy. Gave it an honest onsight burn but fell pretty early. Worked out the moves, crux felt low to me with all the polished holds and feet. Better rests below and above the roof. Really fun, think I’ll get it next time! Stick clip is a must for first bolt

With Tammy, yay first 5.12! This is really just a boulder problem with bolts but I’ll take it lol. Felt solid with the right beta

With tammy. Didn’t feel very warm but I remembered my sequence and got it first try! Jugs are all there, felt secure. I clipped the third bolt, down climbed to ledge and rested, then went

With Tammy. Felt easy on the fingers and technical. I pulled hard on crimps on the roof but I think there was a better foot sequence. Good warm up.

Warm up with Sean and tammy

Warm up with Sean and Tammy

With sean and Tammy. Had a great flow and used all the right jugs. Pumped out at the lip slapping around for anything, and then identified the big right hand pocket to the lower right of the bolt while hanging. Will get it clean next time, but we had to go

With Sean and Tammy, second go I used the big ledge to rest and followed a good sequence

With Sean and Tammy, onsight I pumped out and also used some bad holds

Warm up 2 with Sean and Tammy

With Sean and Tammy, a one move wonder and I think it could go with right beta. Pumpy 3rd clip and throw to left hand jug off of right hand 3 finger drag

With Sean and Tammy. Got desperately pumped by the end and eeked out strength on a marginal rest. Really fun and balanced, cool undercling sequence. A challenging 11a for me

Fun romp with Jaime! Hot hiking up but the couloir was shaded. A bit slippery without spikes but a good stick got me up and saved us when Jaime took the butt slide of her life haha. The climbing was so fun and casual, cracks and chicken heads and only a little slab, approachies were the move. Such a fun time thanks Jaime!

Maple Corridor > West Wall

Attempt 2 with mango, felt way smoother but still pumped out in the greasy cave. Would go clean with a little more endurance

Maple Corridor > West Wall

With mango. Harder yes please. Several falls

Maple Corridor > West Wall

With mango. Pump hard short steep Mason likey. 2 falls methinks

Bridge Area

With mango. Very different from its neighbor, probably got more pumped hauling on steep jugs on this one

Bridge Area

With mango. Really fun balancey movement featuring side pulls and big toe pain. Right before the chains I got cocky and yarded on a sloper that I slipped off of wah wah. Probably my favorite climb of the day!

Bridge Area

Warmup 2 with mango, steep at the top!

Bridge Area

Warm up with mango

Maple Canyon Road > Box Canyon > EFS Wall

Warm down with mango, really fun monkey bar movement through the roof. I fell at the chains, I was tired and did not expect there to be a crux at the end so I haphazardly went for it and ate shit. Very fun and varied route, would make for a good warm up!

Maple Canyon Road > Box Canyon > Ammo Dump Wall

With mango. Two attempts and I fell in the same spot both times. After my second fall I noticed a jug in the seam that seemed like the best way to get through the crux. Second attempt felt smoother overall. Mango gave me his secret superpower ingredient on the second go, I’ll take two next time

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

With mango, fell just before lip. This one felt more sustained then heathen, or maybe just fewer rests. It was getting hot and I was tired so I didn’t give it another go.

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

With mango. Gave it an onsight burn and hung at both cruxes, short challenging sequences and I’m still learning to read the rock. Got it clean on second attempt, desperate second crux! Suns out collars up?

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

Oooooowwweeee them some mighty fine love beads. This one felt as hard as the 10a to me ha, I think it was just more obvious where to put my hands and feet. With mango

Left Fork > Pictograph Wall

Warmup with mango and lizard buddy

Woof this was a lesson in body friction. Really fun trying it and then watching mango style it, I think I learned a thing or two but have a long way to go

Gave it a clean TR burn after my onsight attempt and my learnings felt good

4X4

This thing is crazy long and so fun. I fell thrice on TR I think, really locker thin fingers with a handful of stemmy rests. Placing gear would be hard. Mango valiantly put it up even though he was tired. Favorite route of the day, can’t wait to lead it eventually

4X4

With mango and Luke. My pet brick Brian was the perfect size for the offwidth at the top. Brian is still in training so I backed him up with a #4 but one day he’ll protect cruxes all on his own!

4X4

With mango, wes, Maria, and Luke. Really fun corner out of the sun, slipped and got a proper rock rash cuz I arrogantly went shirtless. And I found a pet brick to keep meatloaf the cat company

Supercrack Buttress

With mango. .3, 2 .4, 4 .5, 4 .75, 4x 1, 1x 2 This is a really fun varied route and I thought it was more like 5.11 for the creek. Worked a lot of my weaknesses and think I could send it fresh next time. Purples after crux 1 I fell and crux 2 I fell but found my sequence and how to use my inside hand

Ganja Wall

With mango, my favorite route of the day. Really fun easy traverse is interupted by a delicate slab move. I felt like I was about to onsight but then the “jug” crimp broke halfway through the crux RIP. Feels a touch harder now, but the feet are still there. Amazing position

Exam Wall

With mango, pretty challenging start for a 10

Exam Wall

With mango, the hand traverse really pumped me out trying to place gear (tight red and purple), between this and Jupiter crack it’s something I definitely need to work on! Fell several times on the hand traverse, then once turning the lip. Lip move felt ok once I figured out my beta. Left hand left lip, right high black crimp, work feet up to right side of horizontal crack, press hard into left palm and feet, get right foot over lip, press until left foot is over lip.

Exam Wall

With Mango, fun frumpy moves up an arete. Challenging but the easiest 11 we did all day

Exam Wall

Warmup with mango, really fun stem box at the top!

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > New Sub-Area 1

Warmup with mango and Wes. Really cool cave behind this with terrified 5.13 in it

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > New Sub-Area 1

With mango, fun view with birds whizzing by. Petroglyphs were nuts and they’re were a lot of them. Goat spewing rainbow was my favorite

Indian Creek > Entrance Corridor > Friction Slab > New Sub-Area 1

With mango and Wes, really fun varied climbing with interesting pumpy hands at the end. I fell on my first go at the sandy chock stone before the chains, and after dialing in beta got it on a second lap. Got me breathing

River Road > Big Bend Bouldering Area > The Wash Boulder

Took me like 10 tries, at the end got to show off my beta to two nice guys from Provo and CO. Found a hand sequence and kept my left heel on the bottom of the rail the whole time. Sharp lip felt good as I desperately threw from the crimp with my left hand. Mantle felt solid, the rail is good feet and the varnish has good friction for the mantle.

With mango, very adventurous and an interesting introduction to aid climbing. Cams, bolts, pitons, and hooks oh my! We didn’t have a stick clip or a hammer so we brought a marshmallow stick and a hatchet. Mangos a beast.

Wheeler-Newsome Wall

With Adam, such a fun and varied route! I fell at le crux trying to get onto the .3 crack slab. I think with a proper no hands chimney rest I could get it clean. Ideal rack would be doubles of .2-1 and optional nuts

Dragon Arch

With Adam, I lead the middle pitch. Such an interesting route, lots of slab, layback, crack, and sport all in one package. I heart breakingly fell right before the chains trying to mantle up off the flake, afterwards I realized there is a jug right hand flake with good feet to the right. Next time! The 3rd pitch was really hard for me, I was yarding with everything I had on the layback crimps and barely got it clean on TR. safely bolted though.

Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder

Spent an hour working this, some strong guys from Boise hopped on too and it was fun to watch them. Can consistently swing up to the crimp, haven’t successfully moved my left hand to the bad rail crimp yet. Tried keeping the feet low but kept barn dooring, and trying to twist the right foot onto the high knob was close but I slipped off there too. I think with twisted right foot and maybe getting the left foot onto the opposing face I could secure that crimp then bump the right hand right from that position. Fun problem, I’ll be back with fresh fingers!

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > The Round Room Boulder

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > The Round Room Boulder

Spent the better part of an hour on this and couldn’t make much progress. Farthest I got: loads of weight on right palm, left thumb sprag on upside down chip, right foot on flake and left foot on knob. Lots of tension in this position, left hand couldn’t reach the rail. Another technique was left foot on flake and right foot on low micro rail, but that felt farther away and I couldn’t move out of that position. Right hand had the meat of my thumb on the triangular edge and the rest of the hand on slopiness.

Gate Boulders > East Gate Boulders > Red Patina Boulder

Couldn’t figure out how to get off the ground, really hard to keep my feet on. From the crimp rail it goes, but hard to bump the right hand up there. I’ll be back for blood :)

Gate Boulders > Gate Boulder

Exciting topout but very secure! It really helped to go look at the top before attempting to see what the options were (2.5 chicken heads). Definitely wouldn’t want to fall into the tree from there, 2 pads. Felt way way easier than standard overhang

Gate Boulders > The Standard Overhang Boulder

Felt so gooooood! Took me like 8 tries to dial in the beta, felt very secure by the end :) 2 pads My beta: drive through right foot to good rail, switch feet and right foot out to rail on other route. Huck left hand to sloper with great hidden dish on left side (just right of chalked stone). Get right foot to crystal just right of starting left hand. Throw to the lip - straight up is bad and I slid off over and over again. Throw to the right and tap around to find good crystals that help you get left foot up to dish and stand up!

Gate Boulders > The Standard Overhang Boulder

With Adam and David. After 5 whips I had to aid thru the finish and I was not happy :( totally thought it had onsight potential but the lay backing proved to be really pumpy for me (polished and slopey in the middle). New week night project! I think I would try getting the right foot into the constriction at the bottom of the offwidth while my left hand is locked on the chicken head and right hand is lay backing, then stand up and grab the pinch to hold me into the crack. Could place a 4 (maybe 5?) here. Also RIP Z4 0.3, the neck bent after the third whip and the lobes are all fucked up

With Mango, Alley, Gregor, and Wilson. Fun warm up with a secure try hard start, fun to place the micro cams

With Mango, Alley, Gregor, and Wilson. Fun onsight burn, fell trying to move off the second chick stone to the hand jam jug, pumped. Fell again trying to figure out the finger locks at the anchors, but dialed in a good sequence. With a little endurance I can definitely bag this next time!

With Alley, movement a little technical, .4-1 emphasis green. Fun but wouldn’t necessarily repeat, though I was tired so maybe that contributed. Fun secure .5 out of the offeidth at the end

With mango, alley, and Gregor. Fun warm up with a little pump towards the top

With mango alley and Gregor, really fun challenge at the end protected well by .5! Off width offers a nice rest. I fell on my onsight burn, then realized I needed to grab the arete and repeated. On the repeat I jumped to the arete too early and had to do a wide arm pull up to get my leg up, desperate!

With mango, alley, and Gregor. Such a beautiful route it really does look like Jupiter. I struggled with bad technique on the off width. Couldn’t get my leg in to rest like I wanted and my right arm fell asleep from chicken winging onto my artery. In the future, it is easiest to move by feet on the face and hanging on the juggy rail, then rest and place gear by sticking leg into off width ideally all the way to the crotch.

With Adam, fun line up the corner. Foot popped on the undercling traverse and I went for a short unexpected ride!

With Adam, really fun line up the seam. The gear is safe it’s just pumpy placing it, G rated. I pumped out at the bolt and hung before doing the finishing sequence, so frustrating but I loved the route and am excited to revisit it.

With Adam, just did the first pitch. Brand new TC pros killed the soles of my feet and didn’t feel very secure smearing but got through it.

With Matei. Took an onsight burn and fell at the third bolt, worked my way up to the crux and couldn’t pull it, didn’t see the key left hand crimp. After Matei crushed it I took a TR lap and the crux felt ok, but what comes after it is pumpy! I think I’d be able to do this with more endurance and more intelligence about finding feet to get some rest before the crux.

With Mantei, really fun crimping with good jugs to rest on throughout. Being on the arete is cool. No distinct crux for me, got a good little pump though

With Mantei, fun warmup with opportunities for hand jams and chimney rests at the top, yes please!

With Adam, yet another fun corner with a surprisingly secure roof sequence at the top, there are jugs in the crack! I hung at the first bolt because I got my hand sequence confused and pumped myself out. I also got pumped right after the roof and knee locked to give myself rest! I will be definitely be back to do it clean.

With Adam, fun corner stemming that had my left calf pumped at the top! Good rests the whole way, the start was a little heady but doable

With Adam, we did it as one pitch super fun exposure and jamming!

River Road > Take-Out Beach > The Marquee

With Jacob and Braden. Sandy and delicate but a fun line

River Road > Take-Out Beach > The Cinema

With Jacob and Braden. Really fun line up the arete, I hung because I didn’t see the three finger pocket below the flake after the 3rd arete bolt. After that it went smoothly, really fun grippy coarse rock

Potash Road > Wall Street

With Braden and Jacob. Really fun route, more technical than what we’ve been doing, lots of good constructions for the fingers. Greasy as hell but the corner was out of the warm sun thankfully. Felt smooth and found my rests well, but got pumped and had to hang at the crux mantling past the roof. I probably could have rested a little longer below the roof, I watched Braden put his right foot on the wall and press his body into the right facing mini dihedral to rest below the roof. Gear was uninspiring to me so I ended up backing up most pieces.

Potash Road > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress

With Jacob and Braden, fun pitch! There’s a lot to do in this area would love to come back and spend a proper day here, the Prius could make it ;) fun long handcrack, and tricky thin corner at the top. Good finger locks are there just gotta find them. We got to the ground with a single 75m

River Road > Lighthouse Tower

With Braden and Jacob, way fun! My first desert tower, great views of big bend and the rest of the canyons on the summit. The stem bow was really fun, I got to lead it and after plugging too many cams in the chimney I stepped out to realize that the stem box is super secure and has quite a few jugs. It was nice to stay in the shade most of the route. One 70 got us to the ground in two raps.

With Braden and Jacob, fell at the overhang. Felt pretty tired so took it easy the rest of the day as belay bitch

With Mango and Tyler. Today I listened to my body and followed instead of lead while tired haha. The purple section was really fun and would be a good challenge on lead, another pumpy corner that I need to learn to take rest in (and not lie back!)

With Mango and Tyler. I thought I’d be able to make this one clean but alas I’ll have to come back. Great practice on greens, I just kept bumping my right lock and right foot jam up and got pumped, gotta learn how to take rest and maybe bring some comfier shoes next time for the poor toesies

Fun sequence up a corner, with Mango and Tyler

With Mango and Tyler. Really fun route, the switch wasn’t so bad, I think getting the high foot was probably the trickiest part

With Mango and Tyler. This was a really cool line up a knife edge arete, the bottom part felt doable but the crux at the top required footwork that I couldn’t figure out. It was fun watching mango take laps on it and learning

With Manga and Tyler. Really fun .75 practice in a corner that made it easy to rest, loved it and it used the whole 70m

Followed on TR after Mango lead. Was a cool route and relatively soft for a 12, I fell once in the greens section because of a bad feet sequence. The offset makes it challenging and in order to stay vertical and not overhanging you have to keep driving that right foot in. Very fun, goes through a range of sizes and I think would be doable, shorty. The bat shit at the top was nasty, and clipping the anchor is kinda airy

With Mango and Brittany, climb 4. Moved pretty well through the bottom and then fell a couple times in the greens section at the top. Really fun movement, would love to come back and nail it once I have more endurance on greens. Baggy ring locks with a few tight hands.

With Mango and Brittany, third climb of the day. I fell at the crux, I was really hoping to get it clean but the feet were slippery and insecure. Very sequency locks but doable. The rest of it was fun, a memorable purple section

With Mango and Brittany and friends, fun secure tight hands, only took ones I think

With Mango and Brittany, our first climb of the day. Fun warmup

With Mango and friends. I fell and aided my way up this, would love to come back and do it clean one day. It’s longggg. Mostly ones with a shirt section of greens at the top, a couple 2s at the bulges. It was my last climb of the day and I was stoked to get on it but in retrospect I was way too tired ha. Mango was a good sport belaying me though. The rock on the face is friable and will fall apart if you yard on it, belayer should wear a helmet.

Donnelly Canyon

With Kristie, Gaar and Mango. The flared wideness of this one makes it very physical and wasn’t my favorite but goood practice in an awkward hand crack

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

After a TR it felt pretty good so I came back at the end of the day and got it! I was rather pumped at the top but the technique felt pretty good. With Kristie and Gaar. 2x .75 at start, black metolius, 7x 1s

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Took a TR burn after Gaar put it up, fell several times but it was really fun and would love to do it one day

Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Followed after mango lead, fun calf and knee locks, the thin hands was strenuous for me

Warm up with Kristie. Afterwards I lead a 5.10 to the left that isn’t on MP or the guide

Garr lead and I aided and hangdogged up on top rope. The fingers were pumpy but felt like one day they could go, the chimney mystified me and I had to pull through on the draw

With Kristie, Garr put it up. The crux is sporty but feels like it could work if I properly rested at the ledge

With Kristie, fun juggy steep hands, should have brought more 2s than 3s

With Kristie, this was work until I realized I could chimney!

With Grace, Eden, and Juliana (Grace followed). I was so stoked to finally get on this one and it lived up to expectations! I felt secure on every size, oddly the wide part felt the best and unsurprisingly the thin hands were my weakest point. I fell in the transition to the fists section, I was desperately trying to kick my left foot up onto the platform and my upper fist slid out of a wide spot. I avoided stacking but that might have been a good place for hand stacks. I was definitely pumped too and need to work on that sweet sweet endurance. Lots of good rests though and felt well equipped with doubles of .4 - 4 and singles of 5-6, three QuickDraws. Maybe two 5s and three 4s would have been nice but I was fine without it. Would tape my wrists and maybe left ankle next time to avoid rock rash. Will definitely be back, this was great fun and the perfect challenge for where I’m at in my training. Met some nice folks visiting from Calgary who crushed it after me.

I had a nice detailed tick but it got deleted :( Amazing day with Grace, the chimney felt much more solid this time and we had a blast! In classic style I pooped in a bag after the chimney, but didn't hijack my partner's nalgene this time (lol sorry Evan). The black totem went in the stupid death flake on the last chimney pitch again because I can't handle runouts apparently.

Led the whole thang and Juliana followed. Grace and Eden trailed us as a separate party. Super fun felt a lot more dialed than last year and the last wide pitch felt way more secure. Super fun! Evan messaged me at the top coincidentally, miss that guy.

Came back with grace and it felt really easy today haha! Good beta and good sleep go a long way. 2 laps 2 flashes

2 laps with grace. Took me a sec to remember the beta

Squirrel Creek > Left Side

Tried leading this one free and was immediately spit off when the climbing got steep and smooth haha. Made one move with a high right foot onto the ledge, left on a gaston of a seam, and as I stood up the undercling helped which was cool. Had to aid on QuickDraws through the rest of it but fun challenge

Golden Arches

The approach up the gully was super dirty and had lots of big loose rocks. We trundled one the size of a microwave that was super loose. Wouldn’t recommend approaching just to do this route, it’s very short but a nice crack with a good view up rope. Other routes in this area looked interesting but I was tired

Race Crack Area

Shane rocked this one on lead, crack was wet and grassy which made it spicy. 2 bolts and 2 fixed micro nuts.

Knob Hill

This is not the exact route Shane and I did, it doesn’t appear to be on MP or in the guide. We did a knobby 2 pitch route that was immediately to the left of “Upstairs”. Pitch one started up the ramp of Upstairs, then zagged left onto the knobby face to the first two bolts, then continued straight up past several more bolts to the anchor. There was a fixed line on both pitches. I fell on the relatively blank cruz of P1 and aided through it on the fixed line, felt like hard 5.10. P2 winded up and right through a clearing in the moss on more knobby face climbing with a crux toward the finish that really tested my smearing, probably mid 5.10. One of the chicken heads exploded underfoot and lots of the granite was exfoliating so it was heads up. Safely bolted though. Felt like an amazing accomplishment to get P2 clean. Wonderful view from the top, rapped off on rings.

Race Crack Area

Shane crushed it on lead for our warm up

P-Wall

At the recommendation of David, this thing is really fun and secure! Easier than its neighbor senior moment I thought. With grace

Cracked Wall

Warmup with grace. This thing is 10d at least

P-Wall

One of my favorite climbs in SLO so far! A variety of movement and fun to stick a couple cams (and a nut!) in between the bolts. With Grace who also crushed it

Smashing fun with grace and Eden! Great way to end the trip

Central Joshua Tree > Sheep Pass Area > Ryan Campground > Headstone Rock

Felt spooky haha but a very fun formation to go up. With grace and Eden

Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - West Face

With grace and Eden :)

Hidden Valley Area > Hidden Valley Campground > The Blob > The Blob - North Face

With grace and Eden :)

Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > The Sentinel > The Sentinel - West Face

So fun great challenge! Fell at the roof, then nailed it on the second go with a high foot and the hidden pocket. With grace and Eden on a perfect bluebird day

Shane crushed it on lead. Followed with Colin, beautiful day beautiful weather

With Colin and Shane :) fell for the 5.10 trap but recovered. The first pitch and the dihedral were money!!!

Gave it 2 goes but my ring finger is hurting so don’t wanna push it. I think it’ll go healthy, feels easier than Coco

4 tries, once I figured out my feet it wasn’t so bad :) right ring finger is still giving me pain

Red Rock Boulders > (01) Calico Basin Boulders > Kraft Boulders > (01) West Cluster > Sorange Boulder

6 tries, felt desperate getting the left hand jug from the lower rail, full wing span!

Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Canyon > Brownstone Wall

With Daniel negless, fun day! Learned a lot about stemming in corners. We did it with a 70 and downclimbed the last 15-20 feet, would do it that way again pretty safe

Red Rock Boulders > (01) Calico Basin Boulders > Kraft Boulders > (01) West Cluster > Sorange Boulder

4th try, once I got the bottom feet dialed in. Pretty good feet after the start, fingers felt good!

Couldn’t quite link the whole thing, I peeled off on the move before the lip a few times, didn’t quite have the endurance. Best beta for me was staying to the climbers right, left hand undercling, bump right hand from jug rail to thin pinch to 3 finger pocket/jam. From there bump left hand to pinch, then left hand to lip. Foot jams in pockets the whole way, felt best with opposing foot jams relative to active hand. Next time!

5 goes to figure out my beta. Ended up dynoing from the jug rail to the top. A fist jam technique almost went for me, but it took a lot of strength and I couldn’t execute it after doing the problem from the start

The Brickyard > Yeti Boulder

Got the bottom sequence dialed, was able to hit the jug 6 times in a row once I figured out the deadpoint. I got shut down by the direct top out though, I think it was a combination of fear and bad foot beta. Didn’t want to try the left side top out without a spotter. So close!

The Lizard's Mouth > Kelly's Hill

The Lizard's Mouth > Kelly's Hill

Femme Fatale Area

Took me ~10 attempts, finally felt possible when I stuck the windmill move

Meilee Area

Meilee Area

Couldn’t figure out the mantle :(

Meilee Area

Meilee Area

Fun effort with Lindsay! Fell like 3 times lol, then gave it another shot on top rope and fell twice. The sequences were all very doable but gotta work on that endurance

Simul climb with Remick! Hiked out with Lindsay, Bridget, and Jill (who also did Cathedral). We wanted to do West Pillar of Eichorn direct, but there was a very slow line at the base. After an hour we bailed and decided to simul Cathedral instead. Super fun, probably took us 60-90 minutes. No trax which wasn't ideal

Dozier Dome

With Lindsay, super fun knob and crack climbing :) I lead the bulge pitch (2) she led the others

Stately Pleasure Dome

With Remick! And Lindsay, Bridget, and Jillian behind us. Lead the lieback pitches

Swung leads with Colin Simon fun day!

With Bridget! Amazing day. Made the eastern approach the day before, hiked out the day after, camping at the stream about a half mile from the dome along the climber’s trail. She led most of the 5.6, I led the other pitches. Route finding was tricky through the furrows, we were likely off route and missed the flake entirely, going through the bushes instead. I particularly enjoyed the wide crack after the slot, and pulling on all the chicken heads at the top! Used the recommended rack, didn’t need the #3

Second Tier

With Colin! Chossy and awkward but lots of fun. We blew by the p3 traverse and has to make a higher leftward traverse to a ledge mid p4

First Tier

With Colin

With Lindsay Jacob and Brady

Simul with Lindsay, Jacob, Brady, Jet, and his friend Nick

Five Open Books > First Tier

With Lindsay, Jacob, and Brady

A. Swan Slab

With Madison, this route really challenged me and I fell at every other bolt it seemed!

With Madison

With Madison, only did the first pitch

With Madison, this isn’t the exact route we did but it’s the only one currently on MP for the sector. We were at the Albatros Nest area, hopped on Albotros 5c+ and I think a 6 but I forget which one. Fun morning in a beautiful gorge. The sun came into the gorge around 9 and really cooked us so the session was short.

Cap Rocks

With Colin and Shane! Bit of shenanigans rappelling down to the start but very fun once we did. This climb is on the right side of the arete, I believe the crack on the left is the 10

Main Wall

With Colin and Shane, stayed at Jocelyn's Mom's house in Tollhouse!

With Bridget and Remick

With Evan

Lead on gear cuz I ain't crazy

With Evan. TR'd first then sent! Freezing cold weather fingies were hurting

With Bradley. Lead pitches 1 and 4 and some of the top out scrambling. Slipped and fell following the crux, lowered and then did it clean

With Evan :)

Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes

Matthes Crest

Simul with evan